The Sento – Shadows of a Fading Culture

The Sento
  — Shadows of a Fading Culture

1. What Is a Sento?

Walk through an older neighborhood in any Japanese city, and you may notice a tall, aging chimney rising from the back of a narrow alley.
That is a sento — a communal bathhouse.
In the era before private bathrooms were common, people came here every day, sharing the same warm air and drifting steam. It was said to function as a kind of neighborhood salon, where conversation flowed as naturally as the water itself.

Today, private bathrooms are standard, and most sento have quietly disappeared.
Once numbering in the tens of thousands across the country, they have dwindled to just over two thousand. A few decades from now, they may become one of those things that even many Japanese have “heard of, but never actually seen” — a cultural species on the brink of extinction.

And yet, in certain pockets of the city, the ritual survives.
At dusk, regulars still slip under the noren curtain — whether or not they have a bath at home — and the soft glow of the bandai counter lights up the alley.
It is a small, stubborn scene that belongs only to the sento, a kind of atmosphere you will never find in a hotel’s public bath or a modern spa.

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2. What You’ll Find There

I couldn’t quite settle down.
Sitting at the kotatsu with my legs tucked in, I checked the clock in the living room. Two hours until dinner.

It was the house I had grown up in, and yet ten years away had made it feel strangely unfamiliar — like stepping into a place that only resembled my memory of it.

My younger sister, who had bought a small house nearby a couple of years ago, had her first baby last month. My nephew.
I hadn’t planned on visiting today, but when I casually mentioned the news to my girlfriend, she said — as if it were obvious — “So you’ll go home soon, right?”
Only then did it occur to me that this might be what people normally do.

Seeing my nephew for the first time didn’t spark anything in particular. Just someone else’s baby. Nothing more, nothing less.
Out of courtesy, I made a silly face and tried to entertain him. He didn’t react. He wasn’t interested in me either.
Maybe that meant we got along.

“Do you want to try bathing him? Only if you want to,” my sister asked, sliding open the paper door and peeking in.

“Not that I don’t want to… I’m just a little scared,” I said.
She left without a word. Our little ritual, completed on cue.

Then a thought drifted in.
A bath.

It seemed like a good way to pass the time until dinner, but they were probably about to bathe the baby. Which meant the bathroom was off-limits.

After some hesitation, I remembered the old public bathhouse I used to visit as a kid.
Back when my father still lived with us, he liked sento and would take me along.

I looked into the kitchen, where my mother was quietly preparing dinner.

“Hey, do you remember Hinode-yu, past the shopping street? Is it still there?”

She turned with a dish towel in her hand. “The shopping street?”

“No… I mean the bathhouse.”

“Oh, Hinode-yu. That takes me back.”

That takes me back usually means it’s gone, I thought.

“Why? Something about Hinode-yu?”

“If it were still open, I thought I might go. But I guess it’s probably gone by now…”

“Oh? Well, be careful.”

Be careful?
So it is still around?

“It’s still there?”
“You’re going, aren’t you?”
“Well… if it is.”
“…”
“So it’s still there?”
“Who knows.”

Talking to my mother always irritated me in this very specific way — and oddly enough, the fact that nothing had changed gave me a faint sense of comfort.
She looked smaller now, this woman who raised my sister and me alone after my father left.
If she was still herself, that was enough.

Then, with the triumphant tone of someone unveiling a brilliant idea no one had ever considered, she suddenly said:

“Oh! If you’re going to the shopping street, get those dorayaki for me. What were they called again…?”

“Buneidō?”

“Yes!”

I almost asked Is that place still open too? but stopped myself. Humans learn.

Still slightly irritated, I said, “Probably not,” and left the room.

I rummaged through the storage closet for a bar of soap and a towel, and without confirming whether Hinode-yu truly existed, stepped outside.

The evening wind was sharp with cold.
Walking slowly, I found the bathhouse exactly where it used to be, its warm light glowing behind the curtain.
In my memory it had been grander, but most of it looked the same.

Two entrances stood side by side.
I walked under the faded navy curtain on the left and slid open the old wooden door, which rattled loudly.

Several pairs of shoes were already lined up.
In the changing room, a thin old man was performing some slow, cryptic exercise.

My eyes met those of the woman at the front desk.

For a moment, nostalgia washed over me.
She looked just like the woman who had been here when I was a child — or so it seemed.
Of course she wouldn’t remember me.

I paid quietly and went inside.

After washing, I sank into the tub.
The mural of pine trees and mountains filled my view. That, too, was unchanged.

I used to sit like this and watch the adults.
And there had been one man I could never forget — a regular who was always there, moving between the tub and the washing area countless times.
His left hand was missing from the wrist down.
As a child I didn’t know why, only that it must have made life difficult.
But the more I watched him, the more his practiced movements took on something eerie, as if I were witnessing something forbidden.

I looked around the bathing area now.
He wasn’t there.

Leaving the bathhouse, I asked the woman at the desk on a whim:

“Um… this might sound strange.”

She gave me a cautious look.

“Oh, nothing weird. It’s just something from twenty years ago.”

Her suspicion deepened.

“I used to come here sometimes, back then.”

Her look seemed to say: And?

“I was wondering if you remember a regular customer. Someone who was here every day—”

Silence.

“His left hand was… missing…”

At that, she finally spoke.

“Oh, Mr. Shibata.”

“Shibata… san?”

“I mean— I was just wondering what happened to him.”

“He passed away. Long ago.”

“…I see. So that’s what happened.”

“Why? Something about Mr. Shibata?”

“No, nothing. Just curious.”

I turned to leave, and she added:

“And my sister.”

“Sorry?”

“The person you think was here back then — that was my sister.
She’s gone now.”

Her expression softened.

“She was fifteen years older than me. Back then I was barely twenty. A student.
So you’ve said something terribly rude, you know?”

But she was smiling.

“People say we look alike, though.”

Outside, the cold had deepened and the sun had vanished completely.

I hadn’t noticed when I arrived, but there used to be a small park right in front of the bathhouse.
Now it was a parking lot for ten cars.
Of course things had changed. Twenty years had passed.
And they would keep on changing.

Oh — right. The dorayaki.

Maybe I should buy two for my mother.
And one for my sister and her husband.
…The baby could wait.

I checked the time.

Was Buneidō still open, I wondered.

3. Using a Sento

A sento is not a tourist attraction.
It is part of the everyday infrastructure of a neighborhood, shaped by the people who live around it.
You won’t see many foreign visitors, but most places are used to welcoming newcomers.

The details differ from region to region — the temperature of the water, the style of the painted mural, the structure of the building itself.
Those small differences are part of what makes each sento worth experiencing.


3-1. How to Use a Sento

1) Enter → Remove your shoes
Take off your shoes at the entrance and place them in a shoe locker.
Lock it, and keep the key with you.

2) Pay at the front desk
Fees are fixed by each municipality.
In Tokyo, for example, adults pay 520 yen.

3) Changing room → Undress → Bath area
Store valuables in a locker.
Most places use wristband-style locker keys.

4) Wash first
Before entering the tub, wash your body and hair thoroughly.
This is essential etiquette.

5) Enter the bath
Sento water is hotter than a typical home bath — usually 42–45°C.
Short dips are recommended.

6) After bathing → Rest area
Many people stretch, cool down, or enjoy a bottle of milk before heading home.


3-2. Recommended Sento in Tokyo

1) Bunkayokusen (Ikejiri-Ōhashi)

A renovated, spotless bathhouse popular with younger visitors.
Clear English signage.

  • Address: 3-6-8 Higashiyama, Meguro-ku
  • Tel: 03-3792-4126
  • Hours: 15:30–25:00 (Sun also 08:00–12:00)
  • Closed: Irregular
  • Access: 5 min walk from Ikejiri-Ōhashi Station (Tokyu Den-en-toshi Line)
  • Website (JP): https://www.bunkayokusen1010.com/

2) Daikokuyu (Oshiage)

Near Tokyo Skytree.
Known for its spacious open-air bath and electric bath.

  • Address: 3-12-14 Yokokawa, Sumida-ku
  • Tel: 03-3622-6698
  • Hours: Weekdays 15:00–24:00 / Sat from 14:00 / Sun & Holidays from 13:00
  • Closed: Monday (or the next day if Monday is a holiday)
  • Access: 6 min walk from Oshiage Station; 12 min from Kinshichō; 10 min from Skytree
  • Website (EN): https://www.daikokuyu.com/english/index.html

3) Takarayu (Kita-Senju)

A bathhouse with a garden — the atmosphere alone is worth the trip.
Beautiful traditional wooden architecture remains intact.

  • Address: 27-1 Senju Motomachi, Adachi-ku
  • Tel: 03-3881-2660
  • Hours: 15:00–23:30
  • Closed: Friday
  • Access: From Kita-Senju Station, take a bus to “Senju Sakuragichō,” then walk 5 min
  • Website (JP): http://slowtime.net/takarayu/

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