Exploring the Arcade at Dawn
– A Cat, a Bike, and a Blue Cap
1. On Peeking Into a Morning Arcade
There’s a well-worn phrase often used in media—sometimes cleverly, sometimes lazily—that divides the world into two kinds of things. You’ve likely heard a version of it before.
Something like, “There are two kinds of bread in this world: bread that’s made with care, and bread that isn’t.”
What’s brilliant (or dangerous) about this construction is that it sounds like it’s saying something profound, when in fact it’s not saying much at all. And yet, it works. It’s convenient, it’s flexible, and you can apply it to just about anything.
Even arcades. Especially arcades.
There are two kinds of shopping arcades in Japan: one bustling with locals and tourists alike, and one that… isn’t.
Beyond the vibrant, photo-ready arcades you’ll find in guidebooks and social media, there are countless quieter ones—tucked away in neighborhoods, half-shuttered, half-alive.
Places where half the stores are long gone, and the rest cling gently to their routines.
But in these fading arcades, you might find something more honest: an unpolished glimpse into how people actually live.
If you happen to stroll through one of these arcades at dawn, right before the day begins, you may catch a side of Japan you hadn’t expected to see.
Look over there—see that cat?
That one’s on patrol.


2. The Things That Are There

Once I cross the main street, my patrol begins. It’s been a while.
It’s early, so the arcade is still mostly empty. Then again, just to clarify, it’s not exactly bustling in the daytime either. You could say it’s a figure of speech.
As I reach the arcade’s entrance, my eye catches something by the guardrail—two small white flowers. Someone must’ve left them there.
They’re nice. I like them.
Inside the arcade, there he is: the fish guy.
A soft-hearted middle-aged man who seems to think wearing different clothes each day would be unfair to the fish. He’s always in the same outfit.
Sometimes, when our eyes meet, he tosses me a little fish. But today, he’s too caught up in setting up his display to notice me.
No matter. First checkpoint: clear.
Pat pat—the familiar sound.
It’s the couple who practice badminton every morning.
For convenience, I call the man “Bad,” and the woman “Minton.”
They’re in the middle of the arcade, where most of the stores have long closed.
They rally the shuttlecock back and forth in silence, and usually Bad loses quickly.
But today, he’s holding his own.
“Hang in there, Bad. Feathers don’t suit a man,” I mutter.
They don’t respond. Can’t blame them.
They don’t speak cat.
Second checkpoint: clear.
And now—ugh, them. The pigeons. Always clumped together near the burger joint.
I’ve never liked how they move as a pack. I’m more the solitary type. Makes them look foolish.
I could spook them, just for fun. But I’ll let it slide today.
They sometimes gang up on me, not that I’m scared or anything.
Still, I pass carefully, just in case.
Third checkpoint: clear… yep, we’re good.
Then there it is—the big square machine.
They call it a vending machine.
If you get close to the back, it blows warm air. One of my favorite spots.
I’ve studied it a long time. Seems you push a button and something drops out.
Fascinating. But I can’t reach the buttons. Eventually, I gave up on that dream.
I sit there for a bit. Today, though, the air feels… not as warm.
Strange. It usually is.


Anyway. Fourth checkpoint: also clear.
With all the checkpoints checked, I head back to the arcade entrance.
This is the highlight of my patrol. He’ll be here soon—the young man in the blue cap, delivering something on his bike.
He always says hello. I always try to meow back, even if I’m half-asleep. Gotta keep it professional.
While I wait, I glance again at the flowers by the guardrail.
They don’t smell like much. Curious, I step closer to sniff.
Then I hear a bicycle stop behind me.
His voice. I turn and give my best meow.
That’s better. Now I can start the day feeling good.
I start to leave, crossing the main street again, and I glance back.
He’s still there, talking to the flowers. He looks… a little sad.
That’s odd. I’m right here.
And that’s when it hits me.
Why the fish guy didn’t see me.
Why the vending machine wasn’t warm.
Other things too.
I look down at myself.
I don’t really feel like I’m there.
Then come the memories—so clear, like a still photograph.
A truck’s front grille. Chrome shining.
So what now?
I mean, I guess this patrol doesn’t mean much anymore…
I look back at him one more time.
He waves to the flowers and smiles—just a little—and then pedals off, feeling a bit lighter, maybe.
The blue cap gets smaller.
Then it’s gone.
I can’t bring myself to move.
People walk by now, more and more of them.
But no one bumps into me. No one sees me.
I remember his smile.
Guess I’ll wait for him again tomorrow.
Pretty sure I said that out loud.
3. Visiting a Shopping Arcade in the Early Morning
3-1. Types and Locations of Arcades
- The kind of “shuttered arcades” described in this article can be found throughout Japan.
- They are especially common in older neighborhoods of large cities or in residential suburbs.
- For example, Tokyo has several in areas like Shinagawa, Sumida, and Katsushika wards.
3-2. Recommended Time to Visit
- The best time is between 6:30 and 8:30 a.m.
- This is when shops are preparing to open, and you’ll see activities like cleaning and stocking.
- It’s before the morning rush, so foot traffic is minimal.
3-3. Points of Interest
- Look out for unique details in shopfront displays or around vending machines.
- You may notice light exchanges between residents—greetings between shop owners and delivery workers.
- Photography should be discreet. Avoid pointing cameras at private homes or businesses during setup.
3-4. Cautions
- Early morning is part of the local daily routine—avoid making noise or staying too long in one place.
- Be aware of garbage collection hours, as there may be bins or bags on the sidewalks.
- Some arcades have surveillance cameras installed, even within the covered walkway.
Also available: Reality of J, a site sharing more on Japan travel and culture.